Getting ready for Ireland - Mrkgnao!

I land in Dublin on Bloomsday. In the spirit of the occasion, I am reading James Joyce's Ulysses for the first time.  I bought the Gabler edition for the simple reason that I recognized the cover from my college friend's bookbag. After I read the preface, I wished that I had bought the original edition, though, or at least the final version that came out during Joyce's lifetime. I am not a huge fan of adding from authors' papers or early drafts. But this is a scholarly debate I don't need to enter. Suffice it to say that I'm enjoying the book so far: "mrkgnaou" is one of the best onomatopoeic words ever invented, and I love line numbers in the margins.